Papua New Guinea

In the small town Maunt-Hagen missing in mountains of New Guinea, I dreamed to get there since that moment as soon as I found out about the well-known holiday of Papuans. There is an opinion that a traditional meeting of the tribes who lives in mountainous areas of island, no more than a trap for tourists, like masayian villages in Kenya. No, it is not true. The festival which is already available more than a half century is the most important social aspect. It is a question of rapprochement and dialogue of tribes which frequently live rather separately and tell about each other different fables (in this sense Papuans do not differ from Europeans). To look at annual festival tourists came from all countries of the world that does not prevent to remain it the original phenomenon.

In a year when I have arrived in Maunt-Hagen, there were thousands of tourists, but locals tens times more. I have started photographing early morning the first day when to the place of events came on the broken pickups the quickest participants. Under cover of a morning fog representatives of different tribes prepared themselves for celebratory action. Mutual process of “colouring” is worthy to separate story. Each tribe has their own colours and drawings. Men and women often differ among themselves with “warrior drawings” and patterns. Each valley has their own traditions: the valley of Vagi, for example, is known by headdresses made of long black feathers of a paradise bird, tribes from mountain Hagen bodies with oil to shine, and “delegates” from Vabag and Mendi are famous by magnificent hairdresses. Each command is strictly defined in time for performance. As well as in any modular European pop stars concert, Papuans compete for a place of the acting in this fest. Dances are estimated by strict jury, winners obtain money reward. Prize for the first place decent enough, so applicants can swear among themselves. I watched one of the quarrel and I should admit that it looked enough threateningly.

The habits of the majority of Papuan mountain tribes so differ that neighbours can only compose every possible fables for their explanation. In one tribe ostensibly eat children, women of another entirely witches, etc., etc. However for all Papuans has lots of common. For example, occasions to conflicts are ground disputes, women, pigs, the size of indemnification for the caused damage.
Every year in mountains there are some tribe wars. This matter of honour and a way to settle disputes. This is a men battle only, thay are basically using still traditional bows and arrows, spears and axes. But more and more they became using fire-arms and cars. Where it is possible, by trucks deliver soldiers to a battle place. Starts conflicts from such artful reason as alcohol. In mountains of New Guinea it is really hard for state guardians. To supervise law in these territories is almost impossible — natives absolutely ignore police!

The matter is that if the representative of any tribe will make penal act — for example, theft, rape or murder, all tribe will stand up for him. Representatives of the affected party will do eye on eye. Eventually, the conflict is settled not by observers of the law, but by leaders at a special meeting during which discussed the size of indemnification to the affected party. Without similar conversation on “top-level” it is imposible to avoid the new bloody conflict which can proceed months, and even years. Serious crime, for example, considers killing of a pig under car wheels (as I have been explained, the price of two pigs equals costs of three women). And save you God to be caught that is called, on hot! If it will be found out that the pig was knocked down by the car driven by white gay, the only one reasonable decision for the last will sit down on the plane and disappear, indemnification for certain will appear so impressive that will simply ruin any tourist.

But let’s return to festival: it is unique possibility for the photographer, operators, ethnographers. The fantastic palette of colors, extreme squall of sounds, squeal of pipes, a sound of tambourines and singing… Everybody is showing here traditional dances and songs. Dances can be divided on two groups: dance-fight and traditional dance. The highlight of the program is well-known” clay people ” show from a valley of Asaro. Thereis a story that long time ago the tribe was in war with the numerous and dangerous enemy. On the eve of solving fight one ingenious head propose to rub bodies with grey clay (grey colour on island — also colour of death), and faces cover with the masks made of the same clay and bones of animals. Enemy soldiers were so demoralised that have immediately left. The technics of conducting fight of a tribe of” clay people ” is rather unusual. Soldiers come close to the opponent with slow movements, and the more closer they are the terrible it becomes. In Prague, in trying to systematise my impressions, I have made conclusion. And on Internet sites for “general public” inhabitants of Asaro valley shown as “clay people”. Representatives of a tribe names themselves as guru-rumba. With the same term dazzle all textbooks on psychiatry and sites of similar subjects. Human souls healers describe in details a phenomenon of “person-wild boar”, mind condition close to a hysteria. It is shown more often at men at the age of 25-35 years, guru-rumba starts to rush, run around the village, to steal knickknacks and to attack fellow tribesmen. Papuans consider that “person-wild boar” was bitten by recently died fellow tribesman. Surprisingly that patience and understanding with which associates concern the disturber of calmness.

One more picturesque tribe who often gets to a photoobjective sight is guly. These guys are rubbed from head to foot with red clay, faces draw in “acid” yellow colour. I was lucky to photographed with their leader (I’m join this picture till now!). Also Colourful celebrations we can see in small town Goroka or in seaside Ma-dange. Inhabitants of coast are less constrained by clothes and less decorated than mountaineers. Between seaside and mountain tribes there is a certain stiffness in relations, and even hatred. Mountaineers think that people from the sea are too lazy. Seasiders accuse mountaineers in extreme similarity to pigs which the last with such love grow up. To tell the truth for me both of those tribes not so beautiful. In village Vabag I became the witness of sing-sing, the celebrations accompanying payments of indemnifications. It is necessary to tell that similar holidays exist in all tribes. Even the well-known festival in Maunt-Hagen is some kind of huge sing-sing.

Sing-sing in Vabag was a good place to see. Locals paints faces and hands in black colour, and put flowers behind the ears. On heads put hats from cut curly hair. Such masterpieces are created for long years. Papuans during dances jump up, exactly like African masaj. I left this place sincerely upset that I had to leave this curious tribe, I had to go back to a valley before dark. One of ornamented man has noticed my disappointment and advised me: “If the mister wishes to learn more about our village, it is possible to find all information on web page www.wabag…” I was chocked from this statement. It is just a miracle that these people, whose original culture wasn’t destroyed by missionaries till now, live in the Stone Age, use bows and arrows, spears and axes made of silicium, but some of them already have computers and cars.

The mountainous part of island is also well-known by notorious Michael Rockefeller who began here his career. In 1961 23-year-old son of the New York governor Nelson Rockefeller came to island with ethnographic expedition of the Harward university. Americans had to work in the rain woods occupied by Papuans constantly conflicting among themselves. Participants of expedition filmed bloody breeding battles, collected the weapon and subjects of a life of natives.

Since then New Guinea attracted the young man as a magnet. He has returned there again, but on southern coast of island to tribe called Asmat, who has the the fame of cannibals and hunters for human heads. The extracted skulls bleached on the sun, then painted and placed on special poles. The United Nations commission at the special session has accused the researcher in barbarity and demanded to turn out him from island cause Rockefeller exchanged similar “cult subjects” for axes. But he didn’t come back home, once a boat with scientist and assistants has turned over near to coast. Local porters have managed to reach the coast, but the American didn’t make it. Huge saving-search expedition gave no results. Under the official version the scientist has sunk and became the victim of a crocodile or a shark, however journalists, who crowds island then, fulfilled the version about cannibals from asmat tribe.

Australians named New Guinea as “the earth of unexpectedness”. Natives or travellers-Europeans you can meet on your way, appear either interesting interlocutors, or decent snobs (dialogue with the last always can be avoided). I was lucky to meet both. After the returning from Vabag I have met Russian pilots from Vladivostok. They live on island for years and works on airline traffic company, mainly for the Australian mining companies. It is really hard to reach mines that why communication with an external world is provided by Russian helicopters Mi-8. In the future time I would like to reach fragments of the American and Japanese planes of the Second World War times which crashed a lot in local jungle. And locals constantly find all new remains. I hope and I’ll be lucky too.

Tags: Holidays